You’ve likely noticed that the ocean is never truly still. Whether you're standing on the shore or out on a boat, the waves continue their relentless motion. But have you ever wondered why the sea is always moving? What causes the waves that never seem to stop, even in the vast oceans? In this article, we dive into the science behind ocean waves and uncover the forces that keep the waters in constant motion
What happens both inside and outside the water is worth seeing and knowing. Even a stone you throw into the water can help create waves that reach the shore. But why?
Waves are formed as a result of the transfer of energy from one place to another. They move in a circular motion. To explain more clearly, waves occur due to the circular movement of the energy passing through the water.
Water itself doesn't move in waves. Waves push energy, not water, across vast oceans. Unless they encounter an obstacle, they tend to continue until they reach the shore. Now, let's dive into why waves are formed! 👇
Waves are generated by the wind. These are surface waves. The friction between the wind and the surface of the ocean causes waves to form. As a result, different sized waves can occur in lakes, seas, or oceans depending on the strength of the wind. As you may know, major hurricanes can signal the arrival of giant waves! Powerful storms and hurricanes that take place far from the coast and stir up deep waters lead to storm waves.
The gravitational pull of the Sun and the Moon on Earth can cause waves. These are tidal waves.
The powerful energies that set large masses of water in motion beneath the surface are earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and landslides. Such underwater disasters cause large amounts of water to shift rapidly, creating destructive forces. The storm waves and tsunamis that result have shown their devastating effects many times throughout human history.